Club Information
 Home
 Forum
 About Us
 Contact Us
 Membership Form
Jeep Stuff
 Jeep Scenes
 Trail Reports
 Tech Library
 Jeep History
 Trail Weather
Links
 Sponsors
 4WD Clubs
 4WD Links
 Misc Links
 Web Rings
 
 
Jeeps "R" Us
WJ HUBS/BRAKE/STEERING ON THE XJ...
The Real Story!   
I would like to start with the fact that this is not an easy or cheap project. If you read the brunsville off-road write up on this there is alot of missing info. For starters, the difficulty in locating a left hand tap for the new drag link and tie rod you're going to need to make. The WJ ones are too long. Also the washers for "spacers" is just plain dangerous. Please read through this, I'll try to be as specific as I can.
At the beginning I had a hard time locating the WJ knuckles. New price is around $245 from Jeep. I found a pair at a local yard for $100 each with the hubs on them. Add $59 for the caliper and rotor, The XJ ones are not even close to compatible from 87-2001! With the right outer knuckle I purchased the drag link and tie rod with the ends. The ends are huge with 24mm x 1.5 pitch thread. The stud is the same as the XJ and will bolt into the knuckles and pitman arm the same. I tried using the XJ left knuckle with the WJ right. Bad idea because the WJ brakes are so much bigger.I'm not sure if it would have pulled to the left because the XJ caliper takes less fluid to activate the piston or if it would have pulled to the right because the WJ brakes are so huge,with double pistons.
     For tie rod and drag link I bought steel rod. 1 1/4" O.D. for the tie rod and  drag link. These are the hardest solid steel rod I could get. The machine shop is going to drill and tap them. They had to have a tap made for the left hand meteric thread. This takes four weeks to get the tap.
    While waiting for the tap to be made I used a section of  1 1/8" O.D. steel rod and used it to sleeve the original WJ drag link, which I cut in half and took 2 1/2" off each end. I drilled three holes through the side of the WJ link, in different locations. Then I made certain all the measuerments where correct and welded the steel rod into the link. straight bead around the WJ ends to the solid bar in the center . Deep plug welds in the holes I drilled. This is a temporary link till the big ones are done,but still 100 times beefier than the XJ one was. It will also be a trail spare since this is all custom and I can't just pick up a replacment should it be neccessary. The end result was exactly three feet and the tie rod ends are in the center of the thread length.
     The WJ drag link is roughly the 1 1/8" O.D. It uses the same thread as the tie rod but the tube is narrower. The wall thickness is the same for both, But the tie rod tappers down at the ends and is over an inch in O.D. at the center. The rod ends are bent. they have a bend to the rear of the vehicle for the tie rod, so they have to be on the correct side or the rod will hit the axle when turning. The drag link rods are each different, the pitman arm end is straight with the drag link but has bend to lower it for extra clearance. The one to the knuckle has a sharp bend in it to clear the stabilizer and coil perch.
     The knuckles bolt right on the same as the XJ ones. It is necessary to use the WJ hubs to avoid the dangerous "spacers". It is true the XJ hubs need to be spaced 1/4" out to center the u-joint between the ball joints. If this is not done the axle moves forward and back while turning. If you look at the axle tube and turn the knuckle you can see tons of movement.
This is very important, read this if nothing else........
      When you put "spacers" in between the knuckle and hub you lose very necessary strength, here's why. The hubs have a tight fit into the knuckle. If you ever changed the U-joints you know how hard it is to remove the hub from the knuckle. With spacers in between, the hub is just barely inside the knuckle. The only thing keeping the hub on the vehicle is the three bolts that attach the hub to the knuckle.
      With the three washers( brunsvilleoffroad) all the weight of the vehicle and the stress from large tires are all on the three little corners of the hub itself. This hub is not designed with enough strength in the ears to handle this kind of stress. If the ears don't break it is possible the bolts will shear. 
      The main reason for using the XJ hubs is bolt pattern differences. Simple solution is to have the rotors and hubs drilled to match the XJ pattern, And use all WJ parts.
      I took my old XJ hub with the lugs out of it, old xj rotor, and WJ rotor To the machine shop. They used the hub to align the centers of the rotors. This way the bolts aren't off center at all. Then drilled through the XJ rotor into the WJ rotor between the five WJ bolt hole so there's now ten holes in the WJ rotors. You could do it yourself,to save money. It was faster for me to have them do it while I worked on other stuff.   They also drilled the WJ hubs to my XJ pattern.If you notice the Xj studs are very close to the center of the hub . You have to grind a flat spot on the head of the studs to get them past the huge bearing and align them with the holes. Once they are seated there are no clearance issues to worry about, it's just getting them past the bearing it self to get them started in the new holes.
    The WJ bearing is much larger in diameter and an upgrade in itself!! 
About Us
Jeeps "R" Us was founded in 1995 and has members from all over the Central Pennsylvania area. Some of our activities include... more
We Support
Our Sponsors
Brenner Chrysler Jeep
Champions Sports Bar & Grill
Capital View Wealth Management
Skid Row Offroad products by SFK Manufacturing, LLC
Jeep Parts & Accessories by 4wd.com
Jeep Parts & Accessories by 4wd.com
Jeep Parts & Accessories by 4 Wheel Parts
Jeep Parts & Accessories by 4 Wheel Parts
HOME | ABOUT US
This site is Copyright 2005-2014 Jeeps "R" Us, Inc.